Why is every text on youtube suddenly cursive? Just happened now with no warning


Found a video with a supposed solution but as always it didn't work. Also, this affects both Chrome and FF. Every time I refresh the youtube page, the font is normal but after a few secs it changes to cursive. Why do these things always happen?

Hmm... it hasn't afflicted my browser (yet?).

Just asked my Dad who's on FF and he says it's the same, so it's not my computer. And it happened at the same time for both of us.

Doh! All of a sudden all YouTube text (in Firefox) is italics. Something's up for sure.

Huh. Alluvasudden it's back to normal again

Mine isn't.

Firing up the PC this morning, I find that YouTube text is back to "normal".

I wonder what that was all about

I found reference to a lot of people suddenly getting the issue when I did. A number said it was the DuckDuckGo extension, which I use. Supposedly, turning it off, clearing the browser cache, and then re-enabling it solved the issue. I decided to leave things as they were, figuring (currently) that the issue would soon sort itself out.

BUT, everything I found was about italic text. I found nothing on cursive.

I see. Well, I'm gonna leave it as is too, keeping your report as a reminder on what to try next time it happens.


From what I can gather, it's the same thing. I think the cursive font is named Italic.

Launching YouTube this morning, I am no longer able to launch a video by right-clicking its icon and selecting Open in New Tab from the resultant menu. A little research found this to be a glitch that YT is aware of and should be rectified "soon". I also discovered that we can still open a video by right-clicking on its name BELOW the icon. There, the Open in New Tab option still appears.

It worked fine for me now.


I reckon if everyone stopped "updating" things constantly we wouldn't have all these problems popping up all the time.

Got to push out an update to fix what the last update broke.

BTW, does anyone use or have any experience with Windows 11? I'm thinking of building a new PC and I'm wondering should I stay Win10 or go with Win11.

Got my new puter a few months ago and it has W11 (old one had W10). No complaints. A few things are different - not better or worse, just different when it come to doing things but that is all pretty minor. ESO is a pretty picky game and it is running fine, and the ESO forums are not reporting any real problems with W11. No complaints here.

Hey, sorry to go off topic, but is there a PC Components thread or can we talk about that here?

I'd ask here and see how it goes. This is the closest thread we have at the moment.

Thanks!

So, A, mind telling us about your new ‘puter? What does it have under the hood?

Love that giphy!

Lol it is rather neat!

My new puter? Hmm, it has green lights and lotsa jigabits.

Here’s some stuff I found on it:
Graphics Card: Nvidia GeForce RTX 3060 Ti
Processor: 11th Gen Intel® Core™ i9-11900K @ 3.50GHz 3.50 GHz
Installed RAM: 32.0 GB (31.9 GB usable)

*mALX drools*

Holy crap! Sounds like a very nice one!!

Thanks. The old one died at the ripe old age of six (with a midlife upgrade). This one is supposed to be a solid 'mid-to-upper end gaming computer' so will hopefully be able to keep up with things for a few years.

Yeah, seems like it should be “future proof” for a while.

Since we're talking computer upgrades, several months ago I updated my primary PC. It's not a totally new build. Some parts are reused, including one major component that cries out for replacement.

Items NOT upgraded:

1) Case: My Phanteks Enthoo Pro meets all my needs. An upgrade is pointless.

2) Nvidia GTX 1070. This hurts, but new-gen GPU prices, in the quality-tear I want, remain far too costly for my budget.

3) M2.NVME drives (x2) and conventional hard drive. I'll not update these until I need more storage space.


Items upgraded:

1) PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G7 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply. I wasn't going to update this. There's no real benefit from doing so. But, at some point I plan to redo my secondary PC, unitizing components jettisoned during the primary PC's upgrade. My EVGA SuperNova 850 G3 will then be needed (for the secondary PC).

2) CPU: Intel i5 13600K. It's a nice upgraded from the i7 7700k. That said, this is the first time I've settled for an i5 rather than an i7, and a 600 model rather than a 700 model. Pricing again reared its ugly head.

3) Motherboard: MSI PRO Z790-A WIFI ATX LGA1700. Price wise, this is a low-end z790 board. But, it's not at all bad. It lacks the polish of the Gigabyte z290 board it replaces, but current-gen Gigabyte MB's, for whatever reason, don't have 5.1-channel speaking jacks, a requirement for me.

4) Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-5600 CL36. My first thought was to buy a DDR4 z790 motherboard. But my DDR4 modules are rather low speed for a current-gen MB/CPU. Plus, I'd then need to buy more DDR4 modules when I rebuild the secondary PC.

5) CPU cooling: Noctua NH-D15S chromax-black. I'm sold on Noctua air coolers. This is another case where I could have reused my "old" Noctua in the upgrade via an inexpensive adapter, but would then need a new cooler from the secondary PC build.

What a coincidence! I just bought a Phanteks Enthoo Pro this morning! I was thinking it would be nice to have a new case as my current one is a bit hard to work in. I also bought a 1tb Samsung SSD for $50. Wow, another build with 32gb RAM. Is 32gb what people are recommending these days? I’ve got 16 in mine and I’m questioning if it’s enough!

We should make a separate thread for computer specs, (well, by "we" I mean Sir Acadian should!). Maybe do that transfer thing, like when you moved the Joan posts out of Morrowind Mischiefs and into its own Fan Fic thread.

Anyway, I haven't any idea what the specs are but I do remember which model: HP Phoenix Envy 810-160, which I bought premade at Micro Center 9 years ago.

Ah, here are the specs:

OS: Windows 8.1 (and proudly so)

Motherboard: MS-7826 (Kaili)
Processor: Intel Core i7 4770

Memory: 16 GB

Video graphics: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760 (upgraded from the GT640 which came with it).

Sound/Audio: Integrated IDT 92HD68E2 Audio

Hard drive: 1 TB, 16 GB mSATA Disk Caching solid state drive

Power Supply: Internal 600 Watt (100V-240V)


I also own a Playstation 2, Playstation 3, Xbox 360, and an original Atari 2600!

Um....

I have an Apple IIe (the "Golden Apple" version with the amber instead of green CRT monitor).

It came with 64Kb of RAM (which was an upgrade) and a 140Kb 5.24 inch floppy drive.

Later, while I was in graduate school, I further upgraded with a RamWorks card that added a blistering 256Kb.

All that said, I wrote my Masters thesis on that little gem, as well as playing a lot of games, including Wizardry 1-3.

It was ALSO color-capable (in 1980!) through the simple expedient of running one cable from the computer to an RF modulator and a coaxial cable to the cable port on a color television. So I had a "19 inch monitor."

That is a real nice case.

This is the PC I put together in 2016. As you can see the CPU andGPU do not meet min requirements for Starfield. If I want to play SF then it's time upgrade.


CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K | 4.00 GHz
CPU Cooler: beQuiet DarkPro 3
MoBo: ASUS Maximus VIII Hero
RAM: 32GB (4x8GB) Corsair Ripjaws V
GPU: XFX AMD RX480
SSD: Drive C: Samsung NVMe 950 250GB | boot drive, Win10, system apps
SSD: drive E: Samsung 860 1TB | My docs, photos, music, TES mod DLs
SSD: drive F: Samsung 850 500 GB | TES game files, screen pics, docs
HDD: drive G: Western Digital Black 250 GB | back up files
PSU: Corsair RM750i |
DVD: Plextor -R PX-LB950SA | LightScribe – failed 2022
DVD Lite-On IHAS224-06 LightScribe – 2022 replaced Plextor
Blue-ray Pioneer R-XD07B external writer Added 2022
Monitor: Dell U2410 24" H-IPS LCD 1920x1200 |
Chassis: COSMOS SE | poor choice
O/S: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit (GPT/UEFI)
Keyboard: Logitech G810
Mouse: Logitech G502
Printer: Canon IP4920 (2013)
Scanner: Epson PerfectionV600 Photo

Gosh, I am not sure where my gaming PC fits in this range. Not a high end by any means, but also nothing compared to the Golden Apple...

In fact, I have two Windooz PCs at home, because "upgrading" a Windows PC for me means replacing by another one as I cannot be bothered to install Windows myself and prefer to buy a complete PC already set up by someone else. Both run Win10.

So, PC number 1 is: 2009 manufacture, Intel i3, 4GB RAM, NVIDIA 720. Runs Oblivion with the whole of TWMP but gets slow in Valenwood and Elsweyr (but not Skyrim). Don't even try Morroblivion.

PC number 2 (current gaming PC): 2012 manufacture, Intel i5, 8GB RAM, NVIDIA 1060. Runs TWMP and Morroblivion (at a pinch), no issues in Valenwood or Elsweyr. Does it for me.

But now at work they're decomissioning our old desktops and we're allowed to take 'em home! You get the whole PC but not the hard drive (data protection stuff), so in particular you don't get Windows with it. I'm hoping to be able to move the hard drive of PC number 1 into it. It's got a good CPU (i7) and 64GB RAM, but no video card, because, err, serious work doesn't require such gimmicks. But I should be able to move NVIDIA 1060 into it. Or may be... Dunno... I put my long gloves on and embark on full scale PC surgery and make one Frankenstein monster out of three PCs..? Nah... who am I kidding... too difficult...

I recommend anyone at least try and build your own computer. I found it to be a fairly straightforward and enjoyable process.

Here is what I put together in 2016 and has served faithfully (except for the PSU) ever since:

CPU: Intel i7 4790k
GPU: GeForce GTX 970
Mobo: MSI Z97 Intel LGA 1150 DDR3 USB 3.0 ATX
RAM: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16gb DDR3 Kit
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 Mid
Phanteks Enthoo Pro Full (arrives tomorrow!)
PSU: Corsair CX Series 750w Bronze (died in 2021)
Segotep 850w Gold (current, installed 2021)
Storage: C:Boot Drive- Samsung 850 EVO 250gb 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (which in hindsight was too small)
D:Drive- Western Digital 1TB WD Black Performance Internal Hard Drive HDD
1 Samsung 870 EVO SATA III SSD 1TB 2.5” Internal Solid State Drive (arriving today!)
Optical Disk Drive: ASUS 24x DVD-RW Serial-ATA Internal OEM Optical Drive DRW-24B1ST Black (which I rarely ever use).
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo CPU Cooler 120mm PWM Fan
Fans: got a bunch from a friend and bought a Cooler Master Silencio FP120 PWM 2400 120mm for the front of the case.

I feel I should specify... Having done this professionally for many years starting in 1990, I then had enough of it... something snapped around 2010. Now I just want to play.

That makes sense

Funny how that happens. In 2014 a 250GB hard drive didn't seem that small at all. I had bought an external hard drive at the time that had a whopping 1TB - surely, I shall never be able to fill that up! - I thought. Ha!

Clarification: that external hard drive was meant for backups. I still use it. When I remember to do a backup, that is.

Lol exactly

Did some backups today. Savegames from FO3 and Blivion and some pics.

But did you backup the backups?

I knew I forgot something.

I might do this when I'm ready. I recently learned there are classes online which teach what we'll need. 🖥 And how to put it all together.

For me the classes were called YouTube.

YouTube® is fine. Because it's so visual, I'd be able to see what goes where into how. There's also Micro Center. Micro Center also has classes, problem is, MC is 40 minutes away from where I live. I could conceivably go to MC for some parts, at least.

How much money could someone expect to save these days, by building their own? I remember back in the forums a lot of console players would say "I play on console because I can't afford a PC" and then somebody from the PC crowd inevitably would say "But if you build your own rig, the cost is comparable to a new console." So ... 12 years ago this would've been somewhere around $400 to $500. Is that still about right?

Yes, you can build a gaming PC for slightly more than $500. You just have to pay attention to the component specs so that they your meet min requirements. Don’t be like me and start thinking for just a little more I can get this part, and this part, and this part. I didn't save a dime. All totaled nearly half as much more than I had intended.

A simple search on youtube for ‘PC build for $500’ pulls up several.

This one was fun to watch although I think he glossed over a couple steps.

How To Build The Best $500 Budget "Gaming PC" In 2023 (step-by-step) - YouTube

BTW, I took a 3 hour JC course on PC Building nearly 20-years or maybe more ago. Parts have changed but the basics are pretty much the same.

Not yet, but I will as soon as possible save onto two other flashdrives and the backup computer

See, just watching videos like that gets me wanting to build a new PC, lol


Very good. Carry on.

I have been busy this morning trying to do as much research as possible on transferring my almost full SSD boot drive to a bigger SSD. So far I’ve learned how to reset my 250gb SSD to factory, and have seen some things on cloning drives, but apparently this has to be done through the use of certain third party software. Anyone here familiar with this process?

As far as I know, cloning works only on drive of identical size. Unless this has moved forward since? Personally I would probably buy a larger drive with pre-installed Windows, then reinstall all the software... Or else just add another drive. Not the answer you're looking for, sorry. But do let us know if you find a better solution.

Well, I was just watching this video and it showed how to do what I’m needing. It used two separate third party programs, one to clone the drive and one to expand the new drive to its native size after receiving the cloned drive. I was just hoping someone here might’ve had some experience with this, as it’s a pretty scary prospect, lol

My ‘C’ drive is 250gb and it was getting full. Cloning the drive was to a partition on a larger SSD was tempting. However since I now had two drives what I decided on doing was to add the second larger SSD drive ‘E’ and then copy and reassign the Windows folders Documents and Pictures folders to it. While I was at it I added another large SSD ‘F’ and reassigned all my game files to it. After ensuring all files copied correctly I then deleted the ‘C’ drive folders and pointed Windows to look for the folders on the new drive. Doing that cut the ‘C’ drive usage in half.

I hope that makes sense.

I cloned my Primary PC's original 500gb M2.NVME boot drive to a 2TB M2.NVME drive last year. It's easy with the right software, so long as you have an empty socket (or an adapter) to plug the target drive into. The software I use lets me designate individual partitions for expansion during the clone process. (I believe it also allows for shrinkage, but I didn't need that.) However, Partition Master Pro, isn't freeware. There are freeware cloning programs, but I've not used them so can't comment on their versatility and safety.

A good thing about cloning is that, should things go amiss and the clone fail, you still have your original SSD in-place to fall back on until you straighten out the kinks. (In other words, don't erase your original drive until the new boot drive is in place and working properly.)

(link) Here's a YT video on the topic (link)

Hmmm, interesting. So you basically just copy and paste all of the windows folders into a new drive? If that is correct, how do you tell windows to start using the new drive?


Ah yes, the guy in the vid you posted is using Aomei, which from what I found in my research is no longer an entirely free program. Apparently, to do what I need it to do, I would have to pay a subscription. I want to do more research into the free options before I decide to spend more money on this little project. I greatly appreciate your response though! It’s good to know someone here has done this before.